Composting
Whether you're
a weekend gardener who barely has time to mow the grass or an avid
green thumb dedicated to cultivating the perfect lawn, composting
should be an integral part of your garden and lawn care program. Why?
Composting is easy and cheap, it's good for your lawn and garden,
and it helps the environment by reducing overall waste.
Composting is the natural decomposition of organic
material. With a bin or pile, a backyard composter turns waste like
grass clippings, leaves and food scraps into a rich soil additive
that can be used to make a more beautiful and healthier lawn and garden.
Composting can range from almost effortless -- just piling organic
matter in a corner of your yard -- to sophisticated -- mixing various
ingredients to get the right nutrient-rich results.
The basic rules for all compost piles are the same, as listed below:
- Collect these items to start your pile:
- Carbon-rich "browns" -- dry materials such as wood chips, dried leaves, sawdust, straw
- Nitrogen-rich "greens" -- fresh, moist materials such as grass cuttings, fruit
and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, eggshells, spent flowers and plants and soft prunings from the garden.
- Try to keep your amounts somewhat equal, because too much green
material can cause an unpleasant odor (treat by mixing in more browns, or by adding granular lime, available at garden stores).
- Don't add animal products such as meat, bones, fats and dairy
products; anything that has been heavily treated with herbicides
or pesticides; cardboard; diseased plants; or pieces of eucalyptus,
red cedar or black walnut trees.
- A pile or bin should be at least 3 feet in all directions; larger
piles hold moisture better and decompose faster.
- Place approximately equal amounts of browns and greens in
6- to 12-inch layers in a heap or bin. You can also add barnyard
manure, bone meal or other additives available from your home
and garden store. Make sure to cover food scraps with other composting
materials.
Soak well with water. Compost should be kept as moist
as a wrung-out sponge.Too little moisture can keep the pile from
properly heating up and decomposing; too much moisture can cause
a rotten odor (Fix by adding materials such as leaves or shredded
newspaper.)
- Keep adding materials. This doesn't mean you have to
run to the composter every time you peel a potato. Many people
keep their kitchen wastes under the sink in a large plastic container
with a resealable lid and a handle. When the container is full,
empty it into the compost pile. If you have yard waste, find a
suitable area to keep the materials until you can add them to
the compost.
- For quicker composting (2-3 months) Chop materials
into smaller pieces and moisten. Alternate 3-inch to 6-inch layers
of greens and browns. Mix the pile often by turning and stirring.
Soak the pile once a week.
- For slower composting (from 3-6 months up to a year) Just keep adding materials to the pile or bin and sprinkle it regularly
with water.
Compost is ready when it is dark and crumbly and has little
odor.
How
to use compost
Adding compost
to soils aids in erosion control, promotes soil fertility, and stimulates
healthy root development in plants.How can you use it? Here are some
ideas:
- Dig it into new planting areas.
- Work into soil on existing flower or vegetable gardens once
or twice a year.
- Spread around shrubs, flowers and trees as mulch. Use as a potting
mix for indoor and outdoor plants.
- Apply in a wide ring around trees below the dripline.
Need more information?
OSU
Extension Master Gardener: 746-3701
Tulsa Garden Center: 746-5125
Metropolitan Environmental Trust: 584-0584
To
bin or not to bin?

Although compost
can be made in open piles, you'll get better, faster and neater results
with a bin. There are many types of composting bins available through
mail order or at your local home and garden stores, or you can make
a bin cheaply and easily yourself.

Factors to consider when determining which bin will
work best for you include cost, convenience, portability, effectiveness
and appearance. Here are some design ideas:
- a wire mesh bin with a hinged front panel
- a three-sided cement block bin with an open front so you can
turn the pile and remove the finished compost easily
- a circular unit made from chicken wire or fencing that can be
opened up to collect the finished compost
- a wooden pallet or 2-by-4 box with a lid and spaces for ventilation
- a metal barrel or garbage can with holes punched in the side
and the bottom removed
- for more advanced enthusiasts, a unit with several compartments
can be used to manage compost at different stages -- raw materials,
active piles and finished product.
Whatever type of bin you buy or make, put it in a level,
well-drained, accessible area. Following are some examples of bins
you can easily make yourself.
Instructions on these and other bins are available from The Metropolitan Environmental Trust, 584-0584.
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Click on Image for a Larger
View |

Wooden Pallet
composter Can be built by
wiring together wooden pallets
available free at many warehouses. |

Portable Wood &
Wire bin
Portable and
uses minimal labor,
with yard wastes added as they are generated. |

Wood & Wire 3-bin
system Multiple
compartments allow turning piles more often,
speeding up decomposition. |

Tilth worm composting
bin Uses vegetable food
wastes and red worms.
Materials: about $35, plus a starter batch of worms.
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Wire mesh compost
bin One of the simplest
and cheapest bins to make. |
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